Onto the mixture is poured a steaming hot curry soup that is sour and thick with fish meat. A spoonful of fish paste (heh-kor) is provided for those who favour the addition. While for decades, Penangites and visitors only knew this variety, a lemak (coconut milk) version was subsequently introduced as an alternative.
Apart from breakfast, laksa time is almost every time for some Penangites lunch, tea, dinner or supper. And whilst this ubiquitous meal is available at most of the hawker complexes or coffee shops in the city centre of George Town and in the surburbs, the discerning enthusiast would prefer to go to one of three places.
If you are in the city, the stall at Lorong Selamat off Macalister Road is a premium choice. It sells laksa at tea time and both the sour and lemak varieties are available.
The sour variety is piquant yet “sharp” while the lemak alternative is rich yet not too heavy on the stomach. A generous spray of chilli powder and/or spoonful of chilli oil is available upon request for those who enjoy the hot challenge. At RM3.00 a bowl and 50 sen extra for an additional fish to add more body, the price appears slightly on the high side but it is value for money.
For years, the market- place in Ayer Itam, next door to the famed Kek Lok Si Temple, has been the place locals congregate to enjoy their laksa. The quality has been consistently the same through the years, the inevitable hot surroundings adding perhaps to the challenge of the flaming hot laksa.
True to old tradition, only the sour variety, perhaps enhanced by many slices of tamarind slices is available at the price of RM2.00 per bowl; visitors and tourists are sometimes known to have slurped up this laksa with relish, go for an extended walk at the Temple grounds, then return for a second round. Myself, on the other hand, could have up to 4 bowls in a day (it’s not that big a portion, really).
No visitor who “knows” her laksa would miss that in Balik Pulau for the world. But I don’t usually go there because it’s so far, lah! The corner coffee shop opposite the T-junction leading into the main and only street of Balik Pulau houses the most popular laksa stall in the village. Both varieties match in quality. The sour variety has maintained its sharp yet exciting flavour and aroma over the years and the fish content is thick yet smooth.
If the lemak variety is not so popular, it could be because the patrons, especially those from the village, have been too used to the original sour recipe which is so much a trademark of Balik Pulau laksa as it is known over the years and as it was known decades back. If you are in a quandary about what to choose, either take one of each or simply have a half and half. At the price of RM1.70 a bowl (can you believe it?!! But I am sure it is more than that, now, since the price hike of petrol and electricity), it is still a steal for value.
While consistency is the hallmark of excellent food, the introduction of extra frills may only serve to heighten the spicy sensation on the taste buds. Hence, the spray of chilli powder and the spoonful of chilli oil are recent arrivals but they may well be the subtle and ultimate oomph for some.
I could have Penang laksa everyday if there is one even close to its standard here in KL. Really.
It was all Rozita’s idea to drive all the way to the Portuguese Settlement in Malacca to have seafood and come back KL again. I had to go pee twice on the way because Ijam drove so fast and I got freaked. You know, some back seat no seatbelts? By 9.30pm, and we’re still not eating. I was so hungry that by the time the first dish came – the vege, I was already almost gulping my food. I don’t eat shellfish. So many people are crazy for oysters so I attempted to try it. With some squeezed lemon juice and some sambal asam, obediently under Rozita’s tutelage, I put the entire oyster in my mouth. I heard that some people just swallow it instead of chewing. I thought hey, no problem, if I could swallow pills, I could do this. Hell, no! The oyster lingered on my tongue touching my tonsil for a good 10 seconds as I contemplated in my head – Chew! Swallow! Chew! Swallow!
I chewed. An entire blast of metallic juice came tsunami in my mouth and I almost puked! As hard as I tried to swallow it, I spat it out. Ohhhhhhhhhh, I had chills and then goosebumps! Ewwwwwwww!!! Oysters suck! Rozita had me in video and she’s proud of it. To replace the wasted oyster, I consoled myself into ravaging the crabs and shrimps. Especially the crabs because I ate 4 and a half of them! Mmmmmm… Yummy… In the end, lesson learnt was – never be greedy. I am not feeling so good today… It was Rozita’s treat (lovely), and I won’t be anywhere near craving crabs again in the near future. Oysters are banned in this lifetime.
